You'd be wrong if you thought crusades were confined to the 11th century and the Holy Lands. During the 1880s, a force from the Christian north led by Hawaiian pastors, descended on the southerners 'in the name of the Book' and killed about 1000 non-believers, and also grabbed some more land for themselves. The name 'Tabiteuea' means 'chiefs are forbidden', and the society of the islands is egalitarian with no nobility. It is the largest and most populous outer island, and parts of Tabiteuea South are among the most beautiful in Kiribati.

The I-Kiribati, as locals are known, pronounced 'ee-kee-ree-bus', speak a Micronesian dialect, although English is widely used in official communications. The local alphabet has only 13 letters, with 'ti' standing in for 's'. The missionaries got their talons in early, and the Kiribati Protestant Church today has over 28,000 followers and the Catholic Church close to 40,000. Religion is taken very seriously, and the further south you go, the more you should avoid doing anything that looks remotely like work, even darning your beach towel could be frowned upon. Traditional customs and beliefs still survive, which is not surprising for a people who have lived so closely to a force as mysterious as the sea, for so long. Belief in the power of magic and the existence of ghosts (anti) is widespread, and small shrines are common in the bush. The clan is the basic building block of society, and authority throughout the islands is invested in the maneaba (meeting house), councils of elderly men, who are leaders of a clan.

Islanders have traditionally lived in a subsistence economy, based on root crops like taro and sweet potato, coconuts and produce from the sea, but as the cash economy makes inroads this is starting to fall by the wayside. Imported foodstuffs are becoming more common and growing in the popularity and status stakes in rural as well as urban areas. The local drop is the unfortunately named sour toddy, which missionaries frowned upon but were never able to wipe out. It is brewed from the coconut palm.

While Tabiteuea is not geared up for tourists, you could contact the Catholic Mission if you are stuck for a place to sleep. Tabiteuea is about 400km (248mi) from Tarawa, and you can reach it by Air Kiribati from Tarawa, or by Kiribati Shipping Corporation from Tarawa.

Canoe racing, volleyball and soccer are all popular on the islands, but more traditional pursuits, such as intricate and beautiful dances - particularly on Tabiteuea - an indigenous martial art and making figures out of string are still practised. Also important in Kiribati are chants for one to four voices that honour particular achievements, such as initiation rites. The chants are not normally accompanied by dance.